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THE
WONDERFUL WORLD OF GREYHOUNDS
HOW COMMITTED ARE YOU? GENERAL INFORMTION THE ADJUSTMENT PERIOD BONDING HOUSETRAINING GREYHOUND MEDICINE PARASITES...INSIDE
AND OUT GREYHOUNDS AND OTHERS EXCERSIZE AND CARE
IN CLOSING All dogs require a commitment of time, attention, affection and patience. Retired racers are no exception. Take a close look at your lifestyle, personality, your family and yourself. Decide if you are a person that can be a responsible and loving owner. Other things to take under consideration are the financial responsibilities, family structure, other pets, and your other commitments. If you can't or won't commit to provide for a pet, be honest with yourself and don't adopt any pet of any age, size or breed. You will be doing yourself and the pet a huge favor. If you have already adopted a pet that you really didn't want in the first place, please return him now. The information in this handbook is intended to acquaint you with the breed and to assist in the transition from racer to house pet. We will be using the pronoun “he” to denote sex. It is more convenient, not sexist. GPA-New Mexico Greyhound Connection becomes GPA-NMGC. At times we will be using the word Grey instead of the full word Greyhound. Most Greyhounds adopted through GPA-NMGC
will have been in “foster care” prior to adoption. This means
he may have been introduced to homes, cars, cats, etc. This handbook is
written as if you are getting your new pet right off the track. It is
better that you understand your Grey’s mindset. In this handbook we will briefly
touch on your Grey’s early life, a little bit of history, some medical,
quirks of the Greyhound, injuries, general personalities, care and maintenance.
What we will not discuss is the political issues that surround the racing
industry. Keep in mind that there is no book, including this one that
is written in stone. There are always exceptions to every rule. There
will always be Greyhounds that didn’t read the book. Making a decision to share your home and life with any pet is a serious responsibility. This is a lifetime commitment. For better or worse; in sickness and in health. Pets of any kind are not disposable items when they misbehave, grow old, outlive their entertainment or fashion value or become inconvenient. Retired racers are delightful, charming and easy to live with once they settle in and know what you want from them. You need to be aware that bringing any pet into your home will have benefits as well as drawbacks. There is a list of most people’s
idea of the perfect pet. They usually require the following: These are the people that need to go to Toy R Us for a stuffed animal because they don’t need a living-breathing creature. If the above is on your list of requirements, please return all pets right away. Another problem for all these rescue
groups along with Humane Societies are the return of dogs. The reason
for returns are endless and more often than not, ridiculous. The family’s
lifestyle may have changed. They may be moving either across town or across
country. We have never heard of any state that does not accept new dogs,
but apparently they do exist. Maybe the owners have just had a baby, or
their grown children and grandchildren are moving back in and there isn’t
enough room for the pet that has shown unconditional love for so long.
I’m getting married. I’m getting divorced. We got the dog
for the kids and now they are grown and gone. I just don’t have
time any more. Pets deserve better than that. 2. Never use a flea collar on a Greyhound. His skin is too sensitive. 3. If your Grey must have anesthesia, the vet must be careful as to the type and dosage. Due to high muscle content and low body fat, drugs are absorbed quickly. Do not assume that your vet knows this. Some vets have never treated Greyhounds and may not know about their “quirks”. Isoflurance is a safe anesthesia for Greyhounds. 4. If you have glass doors or low
windows, place markers or masking tape at the dog’s eye level to
prevent him from running into the glass. 6. In foster care your new pet was fed a high quality food. You will be informed as to what brand he was being fed. We recommend mixing some canned food and water in with the dry. Avoid large chunk food. The total amount of dry should be four to six cups a day depending on the size of the dog. Try to feed at about the same times every day. 7. For house training, treat your
new Grey as you would a new puppy. When he wakes up - let him out. After
eating - let him out. If he is pacing and/or sniffing - let him out. Because
of his natural curiosity, he will look around and sniff a lot, don't mistake
a curious sniff for a looking for a place to potty sniff. It will not
take long to learn the difference and for him to learn to tell you. Always
let him out before going to bed giving him plenty of time. IN THE BEGINNING WHO AM I??????????? WHERE AM I GOING??!!?? Keep in mind that your new Grey has lived his life in a kennel with other dogs, not in a home with people. Be reassuring while on the car ride home. Let him know that everything is going to be all right. When you arrive home walk him around the yard in case he needs to relieve himself before you go into the house. Don’t rush him. Give him plenty of time. This may take a while. For some reason, some Greys will not potty while they are on a lead. Go figure. Separation anxiety is a common problem in all dogs that are moved from what they have become used to or bonded with. It may be more common in adult dogs. Most dogs that suffer (and they do suffer) from separation anxiety show you by being destructive, vocal or may potty in the house when you are gone. Some may suffer in silence without turning your favorite chair into a pile of foam and rags. These silent sufferers may be well on the way to working on an ulcer. Destructive behavior such as chewing on your furniture, walls, counters or windowsills comes from the dog being stressed, afraid or from boredom. It is like humans biting on their fingernails when they are nervous. The stress is more often than not caused by separation anxiety. Some people prefer to crate the dog while they are out of the house. This will stop the destruction, but not the yowling. If you choose to crate, NEVER leave his collar on while crated. Some people use a muzzle, which will stop the chewing but still give him the freedom to move around and sleep in that favorite chair without playing tug of war with the stuffing. In any case the problem is not that he is a bad dog, he just needs reassurance that you will be coming home. Which in time he will learn. Some take a little longer than others. After you feel safe that you will come home to a house that is pretty much like you left it you can put the crate and the muzzle in that place where everything goes that you don’t use anymore or you can donate them to your local adoption group. Be sure to leave him things that he can play with while you are gone in case he gets the urge to do something. Every dog, no matter whether they are Greyhounds or those that wish they were, is different. What is reassuring to one may cause the other to panic. Take the time to find out what works for your and your new pet. Separation anxiety may hit Greyhounds
harder than some breeds because Greyhounds seem to be more sensitive than
most others. WHAT IS ALL OF THIS??!?? Some people say dogs cannot see their own reflection. Well, don’t be surprised if you find your Grey with his front feet on your dresser looking at himself in the mirror. Some will try to get the “mirror puppy”, the “oven puppy” or the ‘fire place door puppy” to play with them. Some will try to look behind these things to find the other dog. Some just like to stare at themselves. Some even like to watch TV. And not just Animal Planet. But full-length mirrors, glass doors and low windows can be a special hazard. At the best a sore nose. At the worst an injured pet. Greyhounds have never seen mirrors or glass and do not understand that these are solid objects and cannot be walked through or worse, run through. Place a few strips of masking tape or markers at the dog’s eye level for the first week or so. When outdoors your Grey MUST always be on a lead when not in a completely enclosed area. The fencing should be no less than four feet high and the type that will not cause injury (such as barbed wire might). Care should be taken that he cannot dig his way under (yes, some do dig). Do not tie your Grey to anything! Strangulation or a broken neck may occur if he runs and hits the end of the tether. Electronic or hidden fencing, which works with an electronic collar that produces a shock to the dog’s neck when he crosses the boundary, is NOT appropriate for Greyhounds! It will not keep the neighborhood dogs out of your yard. It probably will not keep your Grey in either. This type of fencing is not designed to keep a high prey dog where he is supposed to be. Greys are usually so focused on the prey that they don’t notice or don’t care about the pain that the collar causes. Who on earth would want to cause their companions pain to begin with? Rail or board type fencing is not a good idea either. Greyhounds can squeeze through an amazingly small amount of space. They don’t know that they are not supposed to wiggle between rails or board fencing and take themselves for a walk. More than likely, he will sink. If
you have an in-ground pool either covered or uncovered, have someone with
your Grey at all times when he is outside until you are comfortable that
he will avoid the pool. Greys do not know that they can’t walk on
water. He will be dashing around the yard and suddenly --- PLOP--- right
in the water. And he will sink like a rock. You will have to jump in and
save him (no kidding). Weather permitting take him into the pool with
you and teach him where the steps are. Do this until you feel safe that
he can find his way out. In some cases he will never go near the pool
again. Most breeds can swim, but they can also become tired and drown
if they can’t get out of the pool. Perhaps the most endearing quality of almost every Greyhound is the strong bond they form with those who care for them. From the time he was “brought inside” as a pup he has relied upon his trainer for his every need. All racing Greyhounds in the kennel were keenly aware that their trainer would provide for their every need. That they could count on him arriving at the same times every day, seven days a week. Turnouts are always at the same times. Feeding only varies on the days the dog is to race. Not only was your pet’s environment confining and his daily schedule routine, he also had to compete for even a moment of his trainer’s attention. Being one of only 30 to 40 racers in the kennel, he anxiously waited for a pat on his head or a word spoken only to him from the moment he heard his trainer’s key in the lock. There is a LOT of work to be done in a racing kennel everyday, and little time exists for a trainer to spend with any individual racer. Now in a short period of time your Grey is no longer confined to a crate, subject to a kennel routine or competing for attention (unless you have more than one Greyhound). He can roam your yard and house. He can “sunbathe”, play, rest and go out whenever he wants. Most importantly he has your love, company and attention. That is one of the reasons you will probably find your Grey reluctant to let you out of his sight for a while. He may fear that if he cannot see you, you no longer exist. That when you are away, unlike his trainer, you may never return. So he may follow you from room to room like a shadow, wagging his tail when you glance his way or speak to him. Soon you will have more than a pet, you will have a loyal lifelong friend and companion. There may very well be no other breed that bonds with his family more closely than a Greyhound. Greys are polite, and friendly to everyone, but it is you that he trusts. They are uniquely catlike in the way they choose to bestow their affections. The more you hug, pet, play with and love these dogs, the more you get in return. HOW BAD CAN A GREYHOUND BE????? That depends on you and what you
are willing to do to help your newly retired racer settle into couch life.
Greyhounds thrive on structure and routine. They depend on it. Some to
the point where you will hear about it if you are even ten minutes late
feeding. Leading you to believe they really can tell time. Feeding late
is no big deal with no consequences. Once those little tummies get full
all is forgiven. But major changes in his life or your household can cause
behavioral changes in dogs that have always been the perfect angel. A
new spouse, a child moving out, a new baby, a different job schedule,
moving to a new house, divorce or death of a family member or another
pet can throw your Grey for a loop. He is upset and may try to show you
by acting out. Or he may become depressed and not be his usual perky self.
Take into consideration his feelings. Greyhounds are very sensitive creatures.
That is one of their traits that make them so loveable. Some not so caring
pet owners return the dog without trying to help him work thru these changes.
It is far worse on the Grey to be bounced back because his owner that
he has come to love and trust doesn’t want to take the time to help
him in his time of need. COMMANDS AND TRAINING....... THE EVILS OF HAVING ONLY ONE DOG….. Your retired racer has never been
without another dog in his life. He has always had his littermates, kennelmates
and even on the track he was running with other dogs. He has never been
all alone. More often than not, it is the Grey that is the “only
child” that tends to get into more things when left on his own.
All dogs need companions. Even if you do not work outside of your home,
you still cannot be with him 24/7. We all have to go to the store or doctor
at some point. You also cannot get down on all fours and run and play
in the yard. A few Greys are perfectly happy being the only pet. Getting
all the attention and not having to share his family. Greys will be happy
with almost any other breed as long as the other dog is not a “dog
aggressive” dog. But if you are going to have two dogs, why not
two Greys? Your new Grey may seem a little nervous when he is eating. He is just worried that his eating time is over before he finishes. Racing Greyhounds are given a limited amount of time to eat while in the racing kennel. A trainer rarely has time to wait around on one little picky slow eater to finish long after all the others are done. Eventually he will realize that the food in the bowl is his and he can eat at his own leisure and in peace. He may also be very sloppy at first. You’ll find more on the floor than in his bowl. Usually he will clean up after himself. Sooner or later better manners will prevail. Most racing diets consist of raw meat, usually grade D ground beef with some dry kibble and water mixed in and vitamins were added. Often cooked veggies, cooked macaroni and even tomato sauce were added. As an active racer he was fed several pounds of this diet daily. As a pet your Grey’s dietary needs are quite different. Your NMGC volunteer can recommend a brand and amount for your new chowhound. As a general rule, 4 cups total dry food a day is a good starting point. If your Grey is a little on the small side 3 cups total dry food per day will work. If your Grey is large enough to have come with a saddle you may need to go to 5 ½ to even 6 cups daily. Keep an eye on his ribs so that he doesn’t turn into a chunky monkey. A good quality dry food (kibble) is the best nutritional value. More will go to the dog’s benefit and less has to be picked up in the yard. Always use a small chunk food. The ideal balanced dry food for the average retired racer consists of 22 to 27% protein, 10 to 15% fat and 5% fiber. If your hound is a true couch potato and only moves to find another more comfortable spot to rest, use food in the lower ranges. Turn into one of those label readers we all see in the store. Unfortunately some do food manufactures use discarded fat from other sources. If the food you bought smells bad, even rancid and just doesn’t look right, return it right away. If you find more than two bad bags of the same brand, switch brands. Stay away from discount store and grocery store brands. Almost all of these foods are loaded with sugar, preservatives, artificial coloring, empty calories and, well junk. We know it as garbage food. Some people like the convenience of semi-moist foods. Most dogs love the taste. Which one of us doesn’t like foods loaded with sugar and salt? These foods are full of just that. These are the worst choices for dogs that have a tendency towards dental problems. Also avoid foods that “make gravy” when water is added. Given the limited amount of time that your racer was given to eat, he may have a tendency to bolt down his food with lightening speed and not much chewing. He was always given soft foods and dry kibble alone may irritate his throat. “Wetting” his food will help him swallow and slow him down a bit. This will also help prevent him from “coughing” his food back up. Therefore, you will want to add a small amount of canned food and some water to the dry food. As long as you use a good quality dry food, you don’t have to use the best or most expensive canned food. You may have to try a couple of different combinations of dry and wet foods to find the one that best suits your pet. It is up to you whether to feed once a day or twice a day. Some veterinarians recommend feeding deep chested large breeds twice a day to help prevent bloat. Try to feed at about the same times everyday. If you feed late at night you may be getting up in the middle of the night to let him out to go potty. If you feed him just before the family sits down to dinner, it may lessen his begging at the table. But maybe not. Raising his food and water bowls about ten to twelve inches off the floor will make it easier for him to eat. If you have more than one dog in the house, separate their food bowls while they are eating to prevent quarrels and each will be able to finish at his own pace. A Grey just out of a kennel can finish his won food, lick his bowl clean and have most of your other dog’s food gone faster than you could think possible. Dogs, like people, can become bored with the same food day after day, week in and week out. But changes can cause upset tummies and loose stools. If your Grey enjoys his food we suggest you stay with it. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. If you decide to try a new food, mix some of the old food with some of the new for a few days to avoid problems. Table scraps and cooked veggies are always appreciated, but be careful not to overdo. Of course, healthy treats such as Milk Bones are great and can be useful as a reward. Cottage cheese or applesauce is a favorite topping on his food and good for him. Plain yogurt can do a lot to help with gas. Every Grey will have a gas attack sooner or later, and it WILL clear a room. NEVER feed a Grey any pork products. At the very least pork can cause an upset stomach, at the worst, a very bad case of diarrhea. The occasional pig ear from your pet supply store is a terrific treat, but have the yogurt handy. Cow ears are a great alternative. Your Grey may have been given bananas, applesauce, cottage cheese, tomato juice, cooked macaroni or rice, green beans, spinach or other cooked veggies along with his regular food in the racing kennel. Even plain vanilla ice cream. Sometimes marshmallows were given after a race. Go for it, but beware of Greyhound gas. Generally speaking, anything that is good for you will be good for your Grey as well. Some owners, though, caution that raw onions may cause anemia and raw egg whites may interfere with vitamin absorption. Aside from medical care, proper nutrition for you Grey should be the foremost consideration. It is not uncommon for Greys to all but stop eating during hot weather. Don’t panic. If you feed twice a day, trying going to once a day. If you feed once a day, try dividing the food into two meals, or one really small meal and one large one. Be creative. Many adoptive owners prefer their Grey to add a few pounds so they don’t have that “starved look”. If possible NMGC will inform you of your pet’s weight at the time of his retirement. Females usually drop a pound or two right after being spayed. Both males and females loose a little from the stress of having their world turned upside down. When you take him into your vet for the first time, weigh him. Make a note of that weight and then every so often weigh him again, on the same scales if possible. This will help you keep track of his weight and not let him turn into a 55-gallon drum with legs. Greyhounds are a naturally thin built dog that is not meant to carry a lot of extra weight. They ARE NOT starved during their racing careers. Like humans, excess weight is hard on their heart, lungs, muscles and health in general. Don’t let those big pleading eyes con you into giving him more than he needs. The old rule is that you can see the outline of the last three ribs when a Greyhound is at pet weight. Little extra nibbles from time to time are OK, but only a little and only every now and then. Healthy treats are also fine as long as you don’t overdo those either. It is always easier and less traumatic to gain weight than it is to lose it. COUNTERS AND TABLES ----- FAIR GAME?? I don’t think so! As you introduce your Grey to your home, you will also have to teach him a new concept --- that not all food he will see and smell is for him. He’ll need to learn the difference between his food and your food. Kitchen counters and dining tables happen to be at nose level for most Greyhounds. If he is a little shorter, he will put his front feet on the counter or table so he can reach better. Remember he has been raised in a kennel where every time he has seen or smelled food, it was his food. Your Grey needs to be taught proper manners when it comes to food that is not his. A sharp loud “NO” (never strike your Grey) when he shows interest is enough to deter him. It may take you telling him NO several times before he gets the idea, however, a temptation such as a steak defrosting within reach, and no one around, might be too much to ask for. When buying treats, chose good quality basics. Avoid treats that are shaped like people food such as a mini hotdog or bacon. These usually contain a lot of sugar as well as artificial coloring that your dog doesn’t need. Rawhide treats and toys should be avoided. Often rawhide dog treats are cured overseas using dangerous chemicals like arsenic. NEVER GIVE CHOCOLATE TO ANY DOG!!! Chocolate can cause reactions that may vary from dog to dog and none are good. Chocolate contains ingredients that can speed up your dog’s heart rate and/or cause allergic reactions. That sweet stuff contains the substance Theo bromine that is toxic to dogs. Different types of chocolate contain different amounts of Theo bromine. If you have a 50-pound Greyhound, 1 pound of semisweet chocolate, 5 ounces of unsweetened baking chocolate or 50 ounces of milk chocolate are deadly. These amounts will vary from dog to dog. With some, one small nibble can be fatal. You may give your dog chocolate ten times with no bad reactions and wham…the next time it will kill him. Never take a chance! IT’S POTTY TIME !!!!!!!!! And sometimes he will stand half way out and half way in. The best of every possible world is a doggie door. There are many different styles. If you don’t want to cut a hole in a wall or door, you can get one that fits into your sliding glass door. Then you can go to that dinner and movie without having to rush home to let the dog out. You can find a variety of doggie doors and prices at pet supply stores or home improvement stores. Unfortunately, manufacturers do not make Greyhound size doggie doors. Greys need a tall skinny door – for obvious reasons. If you are going to invest in a doggie door, get the one sized for extra large dogs. Because height is still a little short, when you install it set it several inches off of the floor. Use your dog’s height to judge how high to set it. You may need to be creative as to where you can put a doggie door. It is usually not a good idea to have a doggie door from your house into your garage and another one from your garage to outside. You Grey may be in the garage when you come home and raise the door. In his excitement to see you, he could dart in front of your moving car or out into the street. Doggie doors can relieve a lot of the stress and strain of house training. Some Greys may not like to push the flap open with their nose at first. Help him through until he can do it himself. They all seem to learn to come in quicker than they learn to go out. Using treats can help. Soon he will be charging in and out on his own without even slowing down. This is not intended to be a medical textbook. Only to be a guide and a heads up for any sign you see that something may be wrong. Don’t let any source become a substitute for professional advice. The best way to treat health problems is to prevent them in the first place. Spend time learning what your Grey looks like, smells like, feels like and how he behaves while he is healthy and you’ll quickly know when something isn’t quite right. Take your new pet into your veterinarian shortly after he comes home with you. Let him get to know your vet and your vet get to know him before he has to go in for something that in his mind is really bad. Make it a positive experience for him. When choosing a veterinarian don’t be afraid to ask questions. Unfortunately, there are vets who are not familiar with the needs of retired racing Greyhounds. Ask the vet you are planning on using if he or she is familiar with sight hounds---Greyhounds in particular. If you are told that they are like any other dog---RUN, do not walk out the nearest door. There have been a few vets that have charged their clients hundreds of dollars treating Greys for something that didn’t need treating to begin with. Things such as treatment for ringworm, when in fact it was only a “muzzle rub”, or treatment for a low thyroid count when it was within normal range to start with. If you need help finding the right vet in your area please let us know. If at all possible, we will be glad to recommend someone to you. GREYHOUND HEALTH................ Greyhounds in general are a healthy breed and with routine visits to your vet and care from you he should remain in good health throughout his 12 or more year life span. You can enhance his natural good health by providing a proper diet, watching his weight, exercise and preventive medical care. He is depending on you to take care of him. Keep in mind that although Greyhounds are a healthy breed, they are not excluded from health problems that any other breed can have. NMGC requires all owners to keep their Greys inoculated against communicable canine diseases including rabies, distemper and parvovirus. Your Grey has been vaccinated against rabies and DHLPP before adoption. You will be given a copy of the certificate of rabies vaccination at the time you adopt. Greyhounds are especially sensitive to certain anesthetic agents. Some drugs should NEVER be used on a Greyhound. Many Greys take longer to wake up from anesthesia than other breeds. They have relatively little body fat and are thus unable to absorb lipid soluble thiobarbiturates to any significant degree. Such thiobarbiturates, therefore, remain systematically active for a greater period of time. Be sure your vet uses an anesthesia that wears off quickly. Isoflurane is Greyhound safe when administered properly. Some types of anesthesia are likely to cause hyperthermia, a condition that occurs when a dog’s body rapidly and dangerously overheats. This can happen during or after anesthesia. This condition is not limited to Greyhounds, it has also occurred in humans. The condition is often fatal. Dantrolene is the only medication currently available for treatment of hypothermia. Greyhounds are also susceptible to hypotension while anesthesthetized with thiobarbiturates. Greyhounds have a lot of heart in more ways than one. A Grey’s heart is slightly larger than that of other breeds and has a thicker left wall. Approximately 11.4% of his body weight is blood, as compared to other breeds at approximately 7.2%. Greys also have more red blood cells than other breeds. Their blood pressure is higher than other breeds. Their cardiac output increases by 5 times during a race. In just one minute a racing Greyhound pumps his own body weight in blood. Of course a race only lasts 30 to 35 seconds. Only about 16% of a racers body weight is fat, which is less than half the amount of other breeds with comparable weight. Of course, after he has been in your home for a while, with plenty of treats and less exercise, he can really chunk out. We cannot say enough times…do not let your Grey get too heavy! It is believed that Greyhounds depend on their sight for 60% of the hunt. Their sense of smell and hearing are used only 20% each. There is no evidence that a Greyhound’s vision is any better than other breeds. What does make the difference is their peripheral vision. Some sources believe they can see movement in a range of 270 degrees, almost a full circle. And they do have remarkable reaction time and incredible speed. The downside (if there must be a downside), is a Greyhound’s teeth. Whether it’s genetic or due to their diet as a racer, the bottom line is still the same----Greyhounds require regular dental cleanings. Your Grey’s teeth were professionally cleaned before he came to you. Take a few minutes from time to time and check your Grey’s teeth. You can help keep his teeth clean and his gums healthy by providing him with a large marrowbone or knucklebone. Do not give him small bones such as steak bones and never, ever give chicken bones that can splinter and be broken into small pieces that can be swallowed causing your pet to choke or suffer internal bleeding. Hard doggy biscuits such as Milk Bones are helpful in keeping teeth clean. Dentabone by Pedigree is designed to promote oral health. Synthetic toys and bones such as Nyla-bones are also good and they last a long time. There are several newer doggie treats on the market now, such as Greenies that also help keep those pearly whites almost pearly. You may also want to purchase a doggy toothbrush and doggy toothpaste. These are specifically made for canines. Be careful not to brush too hard. Most Greyhounds enjoy having their teeth brushed, but if he resists, don’t force the issue. Your vet can recommend how often to have your Grey’s teeth cleaned and can schedule routine cleanings at his office. Some Grey’s may need dentals twice a year while others are fine with once a year. Having your vet clean your pet’s teeth is the best way to make sure his teeth and gums are in good health. Your Greyhound’s thyroid count is a little lower than most other breeds. Ranging from 1.0 to 4.0 is perfectly normal for a Grey. This is another reason to have a vet that knows or is willing to learn about Greyhounds. A Greyhound’s temperature should fall within a range of 100.2 degrees F. to 102.8 degrees F., and yes, he should have a cold wet drippy nose. Both benign and malignant tumors are common on all breeds. We are seeing many more dogs with cancer than ever before. Not just Greyhounds, but all breeds all the way across the board. However, growing evidence suggests that large breed dogs may be more susceptible to bone cancer. That’s may be more susceptible not is more susceptible. Bloat is a life threatening condition that can strike without warning. It can kill your dog before you realize anything is wrong! Bloat is a kind of every day layperson’s term for gastric torsion or gastric dilation and volvulus syndrome (GDV). Unless you are planning on going into veterinary medicine, stick with the word bloat. A dog’s stomach can actually twist when bloat occurs. When twisted, the blood supply to the stomach and other vital organs is cut off. Immediate medical attention is the only way to save the life of a dog with bloat. Almost 50% of dogs that bloat do not survive. Mainly because medical treatment was not sought, and the dog DOES suffer. Bloat can be avoided by not free feeding. Feeding two smaller meals a day is best for any large deep chested breed of dog. If your dog gulps his food, try to find a way to slow him down a little. Adding water may slow him down. Calling his name and getting him to look at you for a few seconds will give him time to swallow. Some people have put a tennis ball in the bowl with the food. The theory behind this is that the dog will have to take the time to move the tennis ball around to get to his food, which will slow him up a bit. Raising the food bowl of long legged dogs may also help prevent bloat. Even moderate exercise one hour before or one hour after feeding can cause a problem. Avoid strenuous exercise for at least two hours before and after feeding. Would you want to do heavy exercise after a big meal? Symptoms of bloat include retching without the ability to vomit; excessive salivation: the abdomen feels or looks full or swollen; pacing or restlessness; seems visibly uncomfortable or other signs of distress. The symptoms may appear soon after eating or hours later. If your dog is showing signs of bloat, and there is no other reason for his unusual behavior, contact your vet right away. Tell him you are bringing your dog in with symptoms of bloat. Give them a heads up that you are on the way. They can have their staff ready to help you get him into the office if need be. Do not wait to “see what happens” or try home remedies. Arthritis affects almost every dog in their senior years, and you thought it was just we humans that are cursed with arthritis. Greyhounds experience plenty of war and tear in their joints because of their profession and the sheer joy of running. Like all athletes, Greys are prone to “job related” injuries. Because of this he may be more likely to develop arthritis in his later years, but lots of dogs that have never been any more than lap puppies have developed arthritis. Signs of arthritis may be stiffness in his joints. He may be slow in getting up in the mornings or after napping. He may lick at his joints trying to relieve some of the discomfort. The signs are much the same as with humans. If your Grey is aging a little and starts showing signs of arthritis have your vet examine him. If it is arthritis your vet can prescribe medication for relief. There are some newer medications on the market now that work wonders with few side effects. Or instead of prescription medication, you can try one half to one Glucosamine pill a day. There is also a liquid Glucosamine you can add to his food. You may need to adjust the amount depending on your pet. Before you start your pet on any over the counter medication, discuss the options with your vet. As with some people, dogs can have allergies also. The allergy could be caused from insect bites, his food, even some types of grass or like some of us, everything floating in the air. If you have allergies, you know how he feels. He may have red water itchy eyes. It is a little harder to tell if he has skin or food allergies since Greyhounds are prone to having dry skin to begin with. If you suspect your Grey may be having a problem with allergies, have your vet check him out. Your vet can prescribe medication to relieve the symptoms or ask him if a child size dose of Benadryl would be a good choice. For insect bites Benadryl Stick can help relieve itching. Pannus is an eye disorder that is believed to be inherited. It can lead to blindness if not caught in time and treated. There is no cure, but it can be controlled with something as simple as eye drops. A dog having Pannus is not a guarantee that he will go blind. Most Greyhounds don’t really mature mentally until they are about 3 years old, but don’t expect that on his third birthday he will magically be a grown up. One may be more mature at 2 years old than another may be at 6. He may be turning gray but still have a puppy personality. A 2 year old or even at 3 he may still be very much of a puppy and very full of himself. A younger Grey will probably need more exercise and supervision than an older one. A Greyhound that is 9 years old and reaching his senior years will probably need more medical care as he ages. He may start showing signs of arthritis. He may move a little slower and not want to go for those really long walks. The senior hound is also more susceptible to weather extremes. Who isn’t? But he still can give you more love than any amount of money could ever buy. Giving him a big extra soft bed will help make those old bones and joints more comfortable. More than 20% of the animals in shelters and with rescue groups have been abandoned due to the problems that may arise from aging. Neither pets nor humans should be thrown away or ignored just because they are getting old. You wouldn’t really throw Momma from the train, so you shouldn’t throw away a pet that has been with you through thick and thin giving you unconditional love no matter what. They put all of their love and trust in you to take care of them…no matter what. Greyhounds naturally have very little skin oil; therefore they have dry sometimes-itchy skin and dandruff. A teaspoon of vegetable or olive oil in his food once a day will aid in keeping his coat shiny and help reduce the dandruff. You can also use fish oil. Fish oil concentrate comes in soft gel capsules. You snip off the end, squeeze out the oil onto the food, cut the capsule into pieces and drop these in the food also. One fish oil capsule a day is sufficient. Or you may want to purchase food additives from your local pet supply store that do the same thing. Products that you apply to the coat and skin are only a temporary fix. Your Grey’s dry skin needs to be taken care of from the inside out. You will not see a difference over night; it may take several weeks to notice the difference. NMGC requires that all Greyhounds placed by our organization be altered before adoption. Although some risk is involved with any surgical procedure, the risk is far out weighed by the benefits from sterilization. An unaltered Greyhound can produce dozens of unwanted puppies, thus serving to undermine one of the purposes of our program. There are far too many unwanted puppies and dogs at the Humane Society, Animal Control and running loose on the streets. In addition, altered pets do not have as many health risks as unaltered ones. In males, possible enlargement of the prostate gland is minimized and the likelihood of certain cancers is lessened. Castration totally eliminates testicular cancer and the possibility of injury to those vulnerable parts of his body. Not to mention the frustration when he smells a female in heat. Spaying females eliminates her from coming into estrus (heat or season), which is unpleasant for you and her. A “hot bitch” is an irresistible enticement for every unaltered male for miles around. Spaying eliminates the risk of uterine infections and certain cancers, both of which are common in females, which have not been altered. No silly, not the patch to help quit smoking. Although we have often wondered what they do outside for so long in the middle of the night. This is the type of patch that is used for pain management. It is sometimes used after surgery or a major accident. They are good for humans and most breeds of dogs, but NOT for Greyhounds. The idea is for the pain medication to be absorbed slowly through the skin and into the system giving long term relief, but because of a Greyhound’s think skin and relatively little body fat the medication is just sucked right in. A patch designed to give relief for several days is absorbed by Greyhounds in a matter of hours. The convenience of the patch is not worth the risk of over-dosing your Grey. Trauma or accidents are one of the greatest hazards in your Grey’s life. NEVER let your Grey off lead if there is a possibility of him running into traffic and being struck by a car! Greyhounds do not know that cars can injure them. Be alert for hazards in your home and vehicle as well. You can help safeguard your pets in your car by stuffing pillows on the floorboard between the back of the front seat and the back seat. The pillows should be the same height as the back seat. You should also place a blanket or comforter over the seat and the pillows. If you have to make a sudden quick stop, this will keep your pet from being thrown into the floor and avoid possible injury. Greyhounds are not familiar with their new environment and are sometimes injured when they try to run through glass patio doors or low windows, fall downstairs or slip on tile floors. Place markers or masking tape on glass doors and low windows, take the time to teach him the stairs and keep an eye on him until he figures out how to keep his feet under him on tile floors. Also keep an eye on him while you are cooking. A hot pot or pan could be pulled off the stove or a nose in a hot oven when the door is open. After all, it does smell like good food. Use common sense and try to see things as your Grey sees them. Be alert for possible hazards where you dog is permitted to run and play. Garden tools, broken fencing and even holes in the ground can cause injuries. All dogs can be seriously injured or killed from the dangers of riding in the back of any open vehicle. NEVER put your Grey in the back of an open vehicle with or without you! This includes convertibles with the top down. Be sure to keep household cleaners, solvents, antifreeze and other chemicals that can cause poisoning safely away from any pet. In other words, all the stuff you were going to get around to putting away someday, you have a good reason to do it now. It is your job to make your Grey’s new world as safe as possible. Greyhounds have little protection of fur or fat from injuries. So they tend to seem more accident-prone. It is not uncommon to find scrapes, scratches or even gouges on your pet. It is a good idea to have a topical spray for your pets on hand. You can get this from your vet. He is not a baby, but will do whatever it takes to get sympathy. If he has had a foot injury in the past, even though that injury has been healed for months, he may still use it from time to time. Usually when he is being scolded. Your Grey may seem like a klutz at first. He is not accustomed to having to navigate around furniture or even walls. He will learn how to get his whole body where he wants it to be without banging into things. Some Greys wag their tail so hard and fast they could hit it on walls or furniture and bust if open on the end. If this happens, get the bleeding stopped, apply and antibiotic ointment or powder, place a piece of gauze over the wound, then wrap with tape or vet wrap. First over the end of the tail and then around and around. “Bitter Apple” will stop him from chewing the bandage. Bitter Apple is a chew deterrent that is never to be applied directly to skin or fur. Sporadic vomiting may sometimes occur. This is usually the result of vigorous exercise too soon after eating, drinking too much water too quickly or ingestion of grass, bone fragments, or foreign objects. Vomiting should not be a major concern unless it continues without apparent cause or if there is blood in the vomit. If there is blood contact your vet right away. Diarrhea can present a special challenge to a pet owner. This problem is usually diet related, but can be triggered by stress, disease, worms, or a change in environment. Aside from being unpleasant for you and your pet, if left untreated it can result in dehydration and even death. This does not mean to run your Grey to the vet at the first sign of loose bowels. Should your Grey suffer from diarrhea, let him out frequently, as he will be unable to control his bowels very well. You should try to determine the cause and correct it. The diet should be supplemented with plain cooked rice. Patent anti-diarrhea medicines such as Imodium A-D or Kaopectate can be given in the child size dosage. If the stool does not firm up by the second or third day, consult your vet. Greyhounds that have spent any time
in the southwest or western United States may have been exposed to an
insidious fungal disease known as VALLEY FEVER. Valley Fever was first
seen in the San Joaquin Valley of California, thus the name. Clinical
signs are variable and progressive. Symptoms may include: The only sure way to tell if your pet has Valley Fever is with a blood test. It can strike any part of the body (brain, spine, etc.) and is not limited to canines. Many humans have suffered from Valley Fever. A diagnostic test is able to determine whether an infected dog has a localized infection or if dissemination throughout the body has occurred. Since Valley Fever is not common in most parts of the United States, some vets may not have seen a case before. If your Grey is showing symptoms and your vet has ruled out everything else and is not responding to treatments, please ask your vet to take a blood sample and have it tested for Valley Fever and also for tick-borne diseases. Valley Fever can be deadly if not treated. Once diagnosed and treatment is given, the dog can live a very long and happy life with no problems. WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY???????????? Some people think even the slightest little thing is an emergency while others go too far in the other direction by taking the “let’s wait a few days and see” attitude. It’s not always easy, but try to hit it in the middle of the road somewhere. Don’t panic every time your pet sneezes or eats a little grass. You and your pet will both end up neurotic. There are times when you need to contact your vet right away. These times include the following: Vomiting or diarrhea that persists
more than 48 hours If you are making an EMS run with a badly injured animal, try to have someone go with you, but don’t spend the next hour calling friends or knocking on neighbors doors. Try to stay calm enough to drive if you need to. Never trust an injured or frightened animal! If at all possible muzzle the dog. Even the most loving, docile, sweetest dog may bite when hurt or afraid before he realizes what he is doing. If the dog is unconscious you and a helper can make a stretcher out of a blanket. Just don’t drop one end or let the dog slither out of the middle. If you can, call your vet and let him know what has happened and you are on your way in. Try not to panic. Your dog will sense it and think he needs to panic also on top of being hurt. Talk to your pet in a reassuring soothing voice. Sing softly to him if it will help both of you. You can prevent most emergencies by making sure your hound is safeguarded both inside your home and outside. AND SO ON….. Your new Grey will have little or no hair on this thighs, chest, throat, tail or nose. This is nothing unusual. Baldness on his body may be from life in a crate. Hair loss on his nose is from the muzzle. It is NOT ringworm or mange. Most often the hair will grow back. If there is no sign of the hair growing back after a year or so, the cause may be the thyroid. If you are concerned your vet can perform a thyroid count. But if your Grey is eating well, playing, generally happy and otherwise healthy, leave his thyroid alone. His baldness may bother you, but not him. Though it is normal for your Grey to spend nearly the entire day napping, he should be eager to play or go for a walk with very little encouragement. He should have a good appetite and eat with relish. Although some may turn into “munchers” after being in a home for a while. His coat should be smooth and shiny, his eyes clear and bright. He should be happy, inquisitive and eager for all the love and attention he can worm out of his family. After you have been owned by your
Grey for a while, you will become sensitive to his appearance and behavior.
You will eventually become aware of those subtle changes in your pet that
can signal a health problem. Sound scary and overwhelming? Well it’s
not. Use common sense and all will be well. External parasites can include fleas, ticks and other bloodsucking insects. Ants can also bite him if they are in the yard where he likes to lounge. Ticks are small, flat and are eight legged. They can be brown, black or reddish brown in color. They attach themselves to the skin with their mouths. Once the tick attaches itself to your pet and begins to feed on blood, it becomes very engorged. Check especially in the folds of the ears and between the toes. But ticks will attach themselves to any part of the body. Should you find a tick, removed it by grasping it near the head and pulling it free. You can use a pair of tweezers or the brave at heart can use their fingernails. Placing the tick in a small container of alcohol will kill it. Ticks go about their business so quietly that they may go unnoticed unless you make it a point to look for them. Beware……ticks can also attach themselves to you! There are commercial oil based products such as Proticall or Frontline that are Greyhound safe. Apply as directed on the package. There are four tick-borne diseases that all pet owners should be aware of. 1. CANINE EHRLICHIOSIS(also known
as tick fever) They are typically transmitted by tick bites and travel through the dog’s blood stream. Some dogs may be silent asymptomatic carriers of one of these diseases and actually appear perfectly healthy with virtually no symptoms. Unfortunately the symptoms for all four are very similar, and can only be diagnosed through a blood test. But if your pet is experiencing the following and everything else has been ruled out, ask your vet to do a blood screening for tick-borne diseases and Valley Fever. High Fever THESE SYMPTOMS ALONE DO NOT MEAN THAT YOUR DOG HAS A TICK-BORNE DISEASE OR VALLEY FEVER!! You know your pet and will be able to tell when there is a real problem. As with Valley Fever, these diseases do not go away by themselves. If left untreated they are deadly! But with proper treatment there is no reason for any pet to die from a tick-borne disease or Valley Fever. A dog can live a very long and happy life with treatment, and no one will ever be able to tell anything was ever wrong. Treatments for tick-borne diseases can include a series of Tetracycline (or derivatives), or Doxycycline. Your vet will know which antibiotic is best. The antibiotic treatments are relatively inexpensive. Dogs may sometimes be affected with mites, which are tiny spider like creatures. You can’t see them move. They are usually found in the ears and can be killed by washing the affected areas with a cotton ball dipped in a small amount of alcohol. Be careful not to go down into the ear too far. There are specific medications available for mites. If in doubt, have your vet check your pet’s ears. Fleas can be a big problem as well. Especially if your pet has been exposed to other animals or surroundings that have fleas. Fleas are blood-sucking insects with six legs and the ability to jump far distances. Like ticks, they can carry diseases that can spread from pet to pet to human. Fleabites will cause redness and itching on the skin. Your pet will scratch and bite at his skin with his front teeth trying to “flee” from himself. If you discover fleas on your pet, first give him a good bath with a flea shampoo, we recommend ADAMS Flea and Tick Shampoo or lemon scented JOY dishwashing liquid. Use just enough shampoo to lather the dog. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse completely. After his bath and he is dry, he can be sprayed with a commercial Greyhound safe product, we recommend ADAMS Flea and Tick Spray. You will also need to treat ALL pets, bedding, your home and yard. Always use only Greyhound safe products. Pay special attention to the legs, feet, in between the toes, groin area, neck and behind ears. Many preparations will only kill adult fleas. You should repeat after seven days to remove nits (eggs), which were laid. You can also use a “flea comb” which you should be able to find at your pet supply store. In reinfestation occurs, repeat the process. NEVER use a flea collar on any Greyhound! Do not use any internal preparation designed to kill fleas. Do not rely on store clerks to know which products will be safe for your Grey. Be careful when using all flea and tick products excessively or over a long period of time as toxic reactions may occur. Greyhounds do not tolerate pesticides well and some could prove to be toxic or even fatal. Should you have any questions, please call your NMGC volunteer. We have heard from people that have had their Greys for years without any fleas or ticks that suddenly they are finding them. Even though they have been nowhere that their pets could have gotten them. An infested stray cat can wander through your yard. The pets next door may have them. Sometimes it seems that they fall from the sky. Not as funny as it sounds, birds also carry external parasites. If they do show up, again, you must treat all of your pets, bedding home and yard. And again in seven days. You can take the flea collar that you are not going to put on your Grey, cut it in strips about three inches long and drop them into your vacuum bag. Throw the bag away after you have vacuumed. Your new pet may be scratching due to dry skin. If you see him scratching or nibbling, check to see that it is not due to fleas or ticks. If you see no sign of parasites, adding vegetable oil, olive oil or fish oil to his food should take care of the dry skin. Your Grey was given a worming medication before adoption. Internal parasites are common in all dogs and if left untreated can have a serious adverse impact on your dog’s general health. Such internal parasites can include tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms and pinworms. You should from time to time examine your dog’s stool (what fun!) for evidence of worms. Tapeworms, alive or dead, or tapeworm segments look like grains of rice and may or may not show movement and are found on the outside of the stool. Roundworms look like the name implies and usually appear in clusters of adult specimens up to six inches long and normally show movement. Pinworms are more difficult to find but can sometimes be seen about the anal opening when they emerge to lay their eggs. Some indications of possible infestation by worms are when your pet suffers weight loss despite no reduction in appetite or food intake. Rectal itching causing regular biting or licking of the anal area can also be an indication. If you suspect your dog may have worms, you should provide your vet with a small amount of a fresh stool sample in a sealed plastic bag. Some vets will provide you with a small convenient container for this purpose. If infestation is confirmed, the parasite will be identified and your vet will treat your pet with an oral worming medication. You should never attempt to worm your pet without the advise of your vet as all wormers are not only toxic to parasites, they can also be toxic to your dog if not administered properly. Over worming can result in any dog becoming ill. Since worming medications only kill adult parasites, your vet will probably give you a second worming medication with instructions to administer it in ten days to two weeks. Reinfestation can quickly recur if your pet continues to be exposed to parasites. The risk can be reduced if your yard is small, you may have to go on “poop patrol” daily. Heartworm disease is a serious condition that affects thousands of dogs in the United States very year. Heartworms are transmitted to dogs from the bite of a mosquito. The worms actually live in the heart and get to be anywhere from eight to twelve inches in length. Adult worms bred in the heart and release their young (microfilaria) into the bloodstream. This microfilaria are then picked up by a mosquito and transmitted to another dog. The most common symptoms of heartworm disease are: Coughing If the dog has a large number of worms in the heart, sudden death may occur. Heartworm disease can be treated, however there is a risk of death with the treatment also. When an animal undergoes heartworm treatment, a week of hospitalization is required and the dog is given injections to kill the adult worms. This is risky because pulmonary embolisms may occur which are life threatening. After the initial week of treatment, the dog is brought back in three to six weeks for treatment of the circulating microfilaria. Luckily, heartworm disease is preventable. Your Grey should have a heartworm test and start on a preventative. A simple blood test is all that is required. There are several different product options for heartworm preventative. One choice is a once a month oral medication such as Heartguard. Dogs usually love these and eat them like a treat. Another option is Revolution which is a once a month medication when is applied topically between the shoulder blades. Revolution also kills ticks. With so many different options, it is easy to find a product that you and your Grey are comfortable with. Talk with your veterinarian about which preventative will work best for you. TWO AND FOUR LEGGED KIDS........... The exercise requirements of a retired racer are no different from those of other dogs. Walks two or three times a week are good for your Grey as well as you. If you run or job, you will find that your Grey will make a wonderful companion after conditioning. Greyhounds are sprinters on the track, not endurance dogs. It takes time to build them up to distances. Generally speaking, the younger the dog, the more exercise he will need. As he becomes older he may become a little reluctant to go for long distances without a good incentive. He may want you to carry him home. When your Grey reaches senior citizenship, go for shorter, slower walks. Do not risk injury by forcing him to go further or faster than he is able to do. Also keep a check on his pads of his feet. He has been on soft surfaces and will need time for his pads to toughen up before he goes very far on hard surfaces. Back yards have plenty of room for your Grey to get enough exercise. We don’t call them 45 mph couch potatoes for nothing. But if you want to take him out for a walk (or show him off) just use common sense. The honest truth is that these dogs take retirement very seriously. They are just as happy to lie on the couch and watch TV in between all those naps. Their idea of exercise is to get up and move from one comfortable place to another comfortable place. Do not exercise your Grey right after feeding. People do not exercise on a full stomach. Neither should pets. Vigorous exercise right after eating can result in bloat. From time to time a Greyhound will stop dead in his tracks and refuse to budge or even look at you. He has his own reasons for doing this. Apparently it is not for us humans to know his reasons. Bit it is usually because he doesn’t know exactly what is wanted of him or something has caught his attention. The more insistent you get the more he will get that he is not going anywhere. If it comes to a battle of wills, he will more than likely win. Most often this will occur when you are half way through the door at the vet’s office. If you try to wait him out, you will be standing there a very long time. Do not try to drag him. You will not win that one either. Use encouraging words and make it seem like what you want him to do will be the most fun in the world. Never yell or lose your patience or temper. That will only make it worse. If encouragement and patience doesn’t work, go to plan B ---- the wheelbarrow walk. This is done by placing your forearm around the back of his thighs, lifting gently while moving him forward. This can be done while holding the door to the vet’s office open with your backside, holding the lead and everything else with one hand and doing the wheelbarrow walk with your other arm. Not as hard as it sounds. And it will amaze and delight those around you. Once you get him where you want him to be praise him, get excited, be happy. He will soon learn that it wasn’t such a big deal. “Dog Parks” seem to be the newest craze for pet owners and they are popping up all across the country. NEW MEXICO GREYHOUND CONNECTION DOES NOT RECOMMEND DOG PARKS!!! There are several reasons and all have proved valid from past experiences. In dog parks, all breeds, no matter what size and temperament are allowed to run free. One of those dogs may already have a history of being aggressive. Even if your Grey is living happily in your home with your cat and other small dogs, he knows the difference between his housemates and strangers. If there happens to be a small furry dog running around, your Grey may see it as a lure. His brain is telling him to chase it, catch it, chase it, catch it. All he sees is a small furry creature running. The owner of this small furry dog is not going to be amused if your Grey chases down his little one and grabs it. Even though his dog is not on a lead either. The other side of the coin is that there is always the possibility that someone has brought a dog aggressive dog to the dog park and turned it loose with other unsuspecting pets and owners. Your Grey along with all the other pets in the park may be in danger, and if your Grey is attacked it is going to cost you major bucks. Most people take their pets to these dog parks in the evenings and on weekends when your veterinarian’s office is closed. See where this is going? The only veterinarian office that is open during evenings and weekends is going to be an emergency animal clinic, and they are not cheap. You are taking a chance at the emergency animal clinic that the vet that is on duty knows about Greyhound quirks. Your Grey will love the freedom of being able to run and play off lead but not everything we love to do is safe. Don’t go looking for trouble. There have been Greyhounds along with other pets that have been seriously injured from being attacked at dog parks, and when the owners try to separate the dogs that are having a disagreement they are taking a chance of getting bitten. Do not run the risk of any of your pets being injured or worse. WHY A LEAD????????????? Your Grey may need a little practice walking with you quietly and without straining. Before, the lead meant “track time”!! Which was very exciting for him. If he starts to pull while on lead, pop or snap the lead to quickly jerk the collar and give him the appropriate command. Take care not to do this too roughly and chock him. However, the best mannered Grey can become startled and may bolt. If this does happen try not to yell and scream. This will only scare him more. This is another reason for the safety collar. Since a Grey’s neck is bigger than his head, he can back out or “slip” a regular buckle collar. A safety collar and a sturdy nylon or leather lead with your hand inserted through the loop is the surest protection you can give your Grey while out walking. New Mexico Greyhound Connection does not recommend retractable style leads. Even though Greyhounds are the original lazy hounds, they still love to play. Their favorites are stuffed toys. The best things in the world are stuffed toys with squeakers. Some will play perfectly happy all by themselves; others want another do to play with them. Playing tug of war with you or another dog is great fun. You can buy doggie toys or even children’s stuffed toys at most stores you go into or you can get good deals at yard sales, flea markets, thrift stores and dollar stores. Check to be sure there is nothing “nasty” stuck on the toys that are not new. He will love for you to play with him. When you throw a ball or Frisbee, he will be off like a shot. He may even learn to catch it in mid air, but when it stops, so will he. He may stand over it staring….waiting on it to move again. Or he may look back and forth from it to you trying to figure out why it stopped. Maybe it broke, or it’s playing dead. That goes back to the sighthound/lure training. Encourage him to pick it up and bring it back to you so you can throw it again. And again, And again, And again, And again………. A word of warning, if you have children in your home, their stuffed toys may become an endangered species. As with small children, watch for any little pieces such as plastic eyes and noses that can be chewed off and swallowed. If the “stuffie” gets “gutted”, throw away the stuffing and give the “skin” back to him. He will still play with it. Things missing inside your home? Greyhounds are notorious thieves. They have never had “things” of their own, but they love “things”. They see you with “things” and are sure that you would not mind sharing. These “things” can include, but are not limited to, TV remotes, car keys, sun glasses, hair brushes, combs, dust cloths, bathroom rugs, wash clothes, your dinner, sofa cushions, bed pillows, shoes, clothes, bars of soap, newspapers, checkbooks, pens, pencils, money and watches. If it can be picked up and moved, it probably will be. Most of the time your “things” can be found in your pet’s bed, or it may turn into hide and seek. He will be glad to help you search for whatever it is that you lost. If you ask him what he did with it, he will look at you and wag his tail, he is so proud that he put it away for you. Most of the thievery will stop in time, unless it is something that he really, really likes. In that case, either put it away or give it to him. Making sure he has “things” of his own will help keep your “things” where they should be. Your Grey has lived in a temperature controlled environment most of his life. He was kept sheltered and warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Greys have very little body fat and a sparse coat; as a result they do not tolerate cold or hot weather. On hot days your Grey can become overheated just as you can. At the worst he can suffer from convulsions, heat stroke or kidney damage. At the least, heaving sides, heavy panting, vomiting or wooziness. You will need to dowse his feet with water and “walk him down”. Don’t let him gulp down a lot of water. He will vomit it back up. Give him water in small amounts at first, do not feed him until he has cooled down and rested. If it is too hot for you outside, then it is too hot for him also. If you think he is suffering from heat stroke get him to your vets right away. Some Greys are sun worshipers and will lie in the sun for hours. Don’t worry too much if you have a sunbather. He has never had the opportunity to do this before and is truly enjoying himself, but he can burn if he falls asleep and stays out too long. Normally he will wake up and come in when he gets hot. A lot of Greys love playing in water while others think they will melt if even one toe gets wet. It is not uncommon to see a Greyhound out in the yard playing in the water from the sprinklers, or running around in the rain enjoying himself. He may even stretch out on his side in the wet grass looking like a dead dog. If you have one of these water babies, you might want to get a child’s wading pool. Put a few inches of water in the pool, it will keep him cool on those hot summer days and give him something he enjoys. Some can lie on their backs with their heads propped up on the side of the pool with all four legs up in the air. The best of both worlds’s…sun and water. The same goes for being cold. When the temperature drops to about 40 degrees they begin to shiver and are uncomfortable. When the temperature drops to freezing they are subject frostbite and hypothermia. If it’s too cold for you, it is for him too. Use common sense. Greys are indoor pets and are generally very clean. They have very little doggy odor even when wet. Their coats are thin and short, so shedding isn’t much of a problem. A good brushing with a grooming mitt, hound glove or soft brush will take care of loose hair. Greyhounds groom themselves almost to the point of being vain. They clean themselves much as cats do, helping to make them generally low-maintenance. Your Grey will also need his nails trimmed from time to time. Nail clippers for canines are available at pet supply stores. When using nail clippers avoid cutting too short as you may cut through the quick. This can be painful and the bleeding is hard to stop. Styptic powder or plain flour will help stop the bleeding, but not the hurt. Buying a good quality nail clipper in the beginning is better than buying cheap ones and having to replace them. Clippers with a “stop plate” made onto the back will help avoid cutting too deep. Even the bravest Grey may turn into a wimp when it comes to trimming his nails. Unless you cut too deep, it doesn’t hurt them any more than you trimming your nails, but some think it does. If you have a screamer and it unnerves you to do it yourself, your vet can do routine nail trimming for you. You will also want to clean his ears from time to time. GENTLY wipe the folds of his ears with a cotton ball or tissue. You can moisten it with a small amount of baby oil. Clean and healthy ears should never have an unpleasant odor. Special ear cleaning solutions are available at most pet supply stores or from your vet. I JUST HAD A BATH!!!!!!!!!! (A Few Months Ago) Frequent bathing should be avoided because it will dry out his skin even more. When you do give your Grey a bath, choose a shampoo with a balanced pH formula. Lemon Joy dishwashing liquid has the same pH as a Grey’s skin. Not only will he be squeaky clean and smell lemony fresh, it will also kill fleas. Use only a small amount or you will be rinsing him the rest of the day. Try not to get any soap in his eyes or water in his ears. RINSE VERY THOROUGHLY to remove all soap residue. Dry his coat well with a soft towel and avoid drafty areas until he is dry. Dogs, like people can catch colds. Different adoption groups have differing opinions on how often a Grey should be bathed, but all agree that not more than twice a year is enough. Unless he becomes best friends with an angry skunk. Greys are sensitive to cold, so unless it is a hot day use your bathtub or take him into the shower with you. Most discount stores carry shower attachments that can be put on your tub’s faucet without any hassle. Greyhounds have a habit of collapsing while being bathed in a tub with warm water. They are so relaxed they turn to mush. It would be great if you had a helper to prop him up when those long legs start to wobble. You might even get a smile out of your Grey! Some will voluntarily curl their top lip into a smile for one reason or another; don’t confuse this with a snarl. Like people, they usually smile when something makes them happy or they are excited. Some may give you a sheepish little grin when they are being scolded, some will chatter their teeth instead of smiling when they are excited. Most Greyhounds have that very special
spot that when scratched they seem to just swoon. Your Grey’s spot
may be on the side of his neck or behind his ears. You will know when
you have found the right spot by the indescribable look on his face. Some
love to have their eyes rubbed GENTLY with the palms of your hands. Even
rubbing along the inside of their legs will make their heads droop and
their eyes close. Belly rubs are absolutely wonderful. Yes, there is a
little bit of heaven on earth. As the newest and most insecure member of your family, your Grey will want to be where he can see you most of the time. If you want to find out exactly how cold a Greyhound’s nose can be, leave the bathroom door open enough for your Grey to get in with you while you are drying off after your shower. It will usually happen while you have one foot up in the air drying it off. When you least expect it ------ WHAM ------ a cold nose on your behind. No doubt you will have a sharp intake of air and when you whirl around, your Grey will be looking at you like ---- Hey, I was just trying to help! Take it in stride and close the bathroom door just enough so your Grey can’t get in (unless he learns how to push it open) or keep the eye in the back of your head open. Never put anything past a Greyhound. You’ll probably go out of your way to make your new pet comfortable in his new home. Of course, you want him to like his new home and to love you. Spoiling is OK up to a certain point. Have you ever met a really spoiled child? Bratty, bossy, totally out of control and unpleasant to be around? To the point of being obnoxious? You really don’t want your Grey to turn out like that, now do you? Animals, just like children, need limits set for them. Consistency and clarity about what’s acceptable and what’s not, knowing that you are the one that is in charge are the keys to a well-mannered pet. Any dog without a strong leader quickly becomes a bratty overbearing animal that no one wants to be around. Therefore, the dog suffers without the one thing that he needs the most --- love, attention and a place in the “pack” (your family). You are the “alpha”, the leader in your pack, and so act like one. There is a difference between screaming and corrective discipline. Screaming is going to scare the dog, not teach him. Be firm, but be fair and you will have a pet you can take anywhere and be proud of. Occasionally a new owner will fear reprimanding their new pet because they are afraid that their new dog will not like them. Unfortunately these are the adoptions that have problems several months later. Keep a balance from the beginning. Don’t cater to his every whim every time. Every now and then will be enough. In the long run it is better for you and him. You have a new family member, not a houseguest, but always be fair. As stated before, a Greyhound will do exactly what you let him do, and if you will let him, he will rule you, your life and your home. Remember the poster child mentioned earlier? It is up to you to teach him right from wrong. Try using an ointment containing vitamin E. Rub in a small amount about three times a week for about a month or so. A&D ointment is good. Or you can snip open a vitamin E capsule and apply the same way. Or you can leave it alone. Baldness usually is the result of kennel life and more often than not, the hair will grow back. But bald is beautiful. Vitamin E is also good for any scars. All Greyhounds will give their people “the look” at some point in time. For whatever reason that they think you need “the look”. You will know it when you see it. Sometimes “the look” will be accompanied by “the sigh”. That one you will know when you hear it, and they know how to use it to their advantage. Especially when accompanied by “the look”. HAVE TO HELP HIM INTO THE CAR? Getting in and out of a car is a new experience for your Grey. When you open the door and he just stands there looking, it doesn’t mean he does not want to go. Or he may put his front feet in and stop, looking over his shoulder at you. It can be a little scary for him at first. With a little patience and practice, he will be a pro in no time, but he knows all he has to do is give you “the look” and you will help him. Greyhounds do everything possible to live up to that term. They are the original lazy hound. Left undisturbed, he will lounge more hours than not. Life is very, very good!!! Nope. But it takes very little encouragement to get him up and playing. Of course they can, but it is the rare one that does. We don’t tell them it’s possible. Jumping would require energy. I hope so. It’s supposed to. That’s supposed to be there also. Let him. Grass provides a nutrient he feels he needs and will not do him any harm. The worst that can happen is that he will vomit up the grass along with whatever it was making him feel out of sorts. BEING GREETED WITH TWO FRONT FEET ON YOUR CHEST? This is not a good thing. Fortunately, not many do this. If you do find a dog growing out of your chest push him down and back firmly and tell him NO! Do be prepared for a lot of tail wagging and happy dancing. It is worth mentioning that the most dangerous part of a Greyhound is his tail. It can wag as hard and almost as fast as he can run. You bet they can, and it will get your attention real fast, but they don’t usually bark. That would require more energy. Some may talk to you though. You might even imagine that you can hear real words (????). It will usually take something major to get a Grey up and barking. If you have other dogs that bark, so will your Grey. They learn from other dogs, both the good and the bad habits. Some like to do what Greyhound owners have come to call “rooing”. It’s another one of those things you will know when you hear it. It is kind of a cross between a bark, a whine and a howl. Families with two or more Greys sometimes call it a sing-fest. It usually doesn’t last more than a few seconds. You can sometimes keep it going by rooing back at them. It can usually be heard when they are happy, excited or when there is something he is trying to tell you. Well, they do have two front feet that can be used as shovels and two back feet to throw the dirt between. While some do dig, others wouldn’t dream of getting their feet dirty. If you have a digger, try to see if there is a reason. If he is digging up rocks and eating them, he may be missing some mineral or vitamin from his system. A vitamin and mineral supplement will help. Some will dig themselves a hole and lay in it. It’s usually cooler “below ground”. Some will only dig right after it has rained when the ground is soft. Some love going behind you digging up the flower bulbs you just planted. After all, he just saw you doing it. If he is digging just for the fun of it, try filling the hole and putting poop on top of it. For some reason, there is never enough dirt to fill the hole all the way back up. We think it goes to dirt heaven. Chances are he will just move over a little bit and dig a new hole. If you can catch him in the act, run out your back door screaming NO! This may work, and it may not. Some will dig no matter what. Cool looking, huh? A Grey will keep his ears pinned back to his head unless he hears something that gets his attention. This is not a sign of aggression. His ears can go in more directions than you ever thought possible. Well, OK, he is a sight hound. He is looking at things at his eye level. Most will not. He can, but because of the length of his body and legs and his muscle structure, it is not comfortable for him. If you can get him to sit chances are his back legs will be cocked off to one side or the other. Or one back leg will be on each side of his front legs, and his fanny will never quite touch the floor. But if that is what you want him to do, then that is what he will try to do but sometimes it’s better to work on “down” instead. Big time. Besides counter tops, other dog’s behinds, new things, and anything that could possibly be food, Greys approach adult people right at crotch level, so that is where they are going to sniff to see if the person is friend or foe. Small dogs sniff ankles, shins and knees because that is as far as they can reach. Your Grey is not being bad, just friendly. Yeah, right. He’ll watch all right. If someone breaks into your house, he will watch everything they do, and will probably help them carry everything out the door. Not really. There have been a few cases reported, mostly with single female owners, that their Grey has gotten protective of them. Barks at strangers, stays between a stranger and their owner, but these “protectors” are few and far between. A Greyhound’s size alone can be a bit intimidating. This is another term Greyhound owner’s use. It’s when a Grey is lying on his back with all four feet up in the air. Kinda looks like a dead cockroach. Some can bend one front leg for balance making them look like Superman flying. They put those flat backs to good use. Of course not, but they are as close as we can get. You will come to find your Grey to be a charming companion that will continually amuse, delight and even amaze you with silly antics and unusual behavior to gain your attention. Greyhounds are so in tune with the emotions of their family that they really do try to give comfort when you have had a bad day, stressed out, upset or they think you just need a “hug”. HAVE WE COVERED EVERYTHING? NO WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAVE WE SCARED YOU HALF TO DEATH??? If at some time after you adopt your Grey and you are planning on moving, PLEASE let us know your new address and phone number. Greyhounds are one of a group of dogs known as sighthounds or gazehounds because they rely on their keen sight and blazing speed to hunt prey. Many breeds are hardly recognizable from drawings or paintings of their early ancestors. A Greyhounds looks have changed little since his first appearance on coins in 500BC. His purpose in life remains the same to this day. He was, and always will be bred for speed. The origin of the Greyhound is deeply rooted in ancient history. Murals and paintings of dogs very similar to today’s Greyhound existed more than 4,000 years ago. Often following the death of a Greyhound, they were made into mummies so they could join their humans in the afterlife. From the beginning, the Greyhound was held in high regard in the Middle East and throughout Europe. Their pictures were etched on the walls of ancient Egyptian tombs. Pharaohs rated them first among animals, both as pets and hunters. The Arabs so admired the physical attributes and the speed of the Greyhound that it was the only do permitted to share their tents and ride atop their camels. In early Arabian culture, the birth of a Greyhound ranked second only in importance to the birth of a son. In Persia, Rome and Greece, the Greyhound enjoyed similar stature and is the only canine mentioned by name in the King James Version of the Hold Scripture (Proverbs 30: 29-31). In the middle ages, priests saved the Greyhounds from extinction. Again the nobility claimed them as exclusive right. Their link with nobility was established in 1014 when King Canute of England enacted the forest laws, which stated that it was illegal for the lower classes to own a Greyhound. Middle class or free people could own a Grey, but could not hunt with them. Only nobility could own a Greyhound for hunting. Shakespeare and Chaucer immortalized Greyhounds in their literature. Greyhounds were introduced to America in the 1800’s to help farmers control the jackrabbit population. Racing soon began as the result of popular neighborhood competitions. It has been reported that in the “wild west”, a Greyhound wandered into a saloon and promptly fell asleep. During a gunfight the Grey was shot and killed, it was ruled by the judge that the Greyhound was at fault because it should have known better than to fall asleep in a saloon. FAMOUS GREYHOUND OWNERS….OR GREYHOUNDS THAT OWN FAMOUS PEOPLE Because of their gentle, loving nature, Greyhounds are the pet of choice for an increasing number of people from every walk of life. Throughout history and into today, Greyhounds have been pets of prominent people. To name afew, Cleopatra, King Tutankhamen, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, Presidents Rutherford B. Hayes and John Tyler, Bo Derek and Roger Caras. General George Custer is reported to have coursed his pack of Greys the night before the Little Big Horn, and the list goes on and continues to grow. Greyhounds Have Never Been Handled Or Have Had Human Contact…Racing Greyhounds are handled by humans from the day they are born. Dozens of different people will handle them during the course of their careers. Owners, breeders, trainers, handlers and kennel workers combined with their naturally docile disposition makes it easy to do almost anything you need to do. Most vets will tell you that Greyhounds are extremely easy to treat because of their handling. Greyhounds Are Starved While In The Racing Kennel, That Is Why They Chase The “Bunny”…WRONG! Greyhounds are a naturally thin built, deep chested dog. If they were starved, they wouldn’t run at their best. They don’t run their best, they don’t win. No win – no money. That means the trainer doesn’t make the money. Would you do anything to hurt your paycheck? Greyhounds Are Beaten While In A Racing Kennel, That Is Why They Are Shy…..Wrong again! The very best, caring trainers may have shy dogs from time to time. Some are shy, most are not. Some seem shy when they first go to a new home because everything is new to them. They are not sure what has happened to the, where they are or what is expected of them. Just as some people are shy, so are some Greyhounds. Track Dogs Are Abused….Go back to the money thing again. An abused dog is not going to run at it’s best. No, they do not have the kind of life that we think dogs should have, but while racing, they are not pets. They are career athletes. As a general rule, racing Greyhounds are cared for and cared about. Retired Racers Do Not Get Along With Other House Pets….Not all Greyhounds are going to get along peacefully with all other pets. The same holds true of any dog. You could go to your local animal shelter and pick out the most loving, sweetest dog there, bring it home, and it could go after your other pets. All Greyhound adoption groups try to match the right Grey with the families needs, life style and other family pets. Greyhounds are social, pack dogs that need the company of other dogs. Greyhounds Are Muzzled Because They Are Aggressive….Racing Greyhounds are one of the most non-aggressive breeds there is. They are very competitive during a race. Some may nip at others to get them out of the way. In the case of a photo finish for a close race, the muzzle helps to determine the winner. It’s hard to tell one black nose from another if they are right at the finish line together. They wear muzzles during “turn outs” because after being in a crate, they want to wrestle and play. Greys are very thin-skinned animals and can easily become injured while rough housing. The muzzle is to protect the dog and to also protect the investment that has been made in him. Greyhounds are lovers, not fighters. Most people have never seen what is known as a turn out muzzle and are under the impression that it is like the commonly seen ones in pet stores. In reality, the muzzles are similar to a plastic “basket” that fits over the dog’s nose and mouth with a strap behind the ears. It does not hold the mouth closed. Greyhounds Have Scars Because They Fight….Give me a break. Most scaring is from puppy hood. Puppies will be puppies. They are going to wrestle, play, roll and tumble. They get scratched, scraped, cuts and other boo-boos. Because of their thin skin and coat, the least little thing is going to cause a scar. Myths about racing Greyhounds are too numerous to go on with them all. After you have lived with a Greyhound, you will know the truth. Far too many uneducated people contribute to and embellish Greyhound myths. Some people may never have seen a Greyhound race and think they know all about it. You cannot make a dog run if he does not want to. Greyhounds chase the mechanical lure because of centuries of instinct and breeding, but most of all for the sheer joy of the chase. They run because they want to run. By adopting, you already have, but if you would like to do more…Tell all of your friends about NMGC and how they too, can adopt a retired racer. The hardest thing for us to overcome is the lack of public awareness and the myths. So get out there with your Grey and tell anyone that asks all about the light of your life. Even if your Grey is not with you, tell people about him. We will even give you some our brochures and cards to hand out if you like. We are always in need of foster homes. Your Grey may have been in a foster home before you adopted him. Time spent in foster homes can range from a few short days to several months. Fostering is not always easy, bit it is a most rewarding and satisfying experience to know that you have helped yet another retired racer find their way into a loving family and can now live the life of a couch potato. If you would like information on our fostering program give us a call. If you would like to help, but are not able to foster, we always need volunteers to help with “show and tells”. As an all-volunteer, non-profit organization, we operate on a very small budget. We are totally dependent on donations for everything. Our biggest expenditure is for veterinary care. Everything costs. Transporting the Greys, long distance phone calls, postage, printing copies and the list goes on. In other words, we beg so the dogs don’t have to. There are many wonderful people out there without whose support we could never do this at all. To them we are forever grateful. Thanks to all the foster homes, volunteers, directors of adoption programs across the country and kind hearted people that give so much. Thousands of former racers thank them all from the bottom of zillions of little paws. And thank you…for adopting. There are several good books published on retired racing Greyhounds. They have a lot of good information and give you some insight into your pet’s former life and history. Keep in mind that this, and all other Greyhound publications are not written in stone. There are exceptions to every rule. What works for one may not work for another. ADOPTING THE RACING GREYHOUND and GREYHOUNDS THE COMPLETE BOOK OF GREYHOUNDS GUIDE TO ADOPTING AN EX-RACING GREYHOUND RETIRED RACING GREYHOUNDS FOR DUMMIES There is also a quarterly publication We will give you all the information about your Grey that we know at the time of adoption. If you would like more on your pet, you can contact the National Greyhound Association (NGA), ID Department. They can inform you of your Grey’s whelping date, dam and sire. You will need to have both ear tattoo numbers and/or racing name handy. If you would like to become your hound’s official registered owner, the NGA can help you. For a fee, the NGA will send you a two-generation pedigree, for an additional fee you can get a five-generation pedigree, suitable for framing of course. On the back of the pet certificate will be what is called the Bertillon Card. The Bertillon is a detailed record that is filled out at the time the dog is registered as a puppy. It shows ear tattoos, every color, every spot and every stripe on the dog right down to the color of each toenail. All racing Greyhounds must be registered with the NGA before they can set one little toe on a track. If you are interested in acquiring a pet certificate you will have to contact the NGA for a blue pet transfer form. You can do this by writing or calling the NGA. You can also go to their web page to request the transfer via email. National Greyhound Association They will send you the blue transfer form which will include the name and address of the registered owner. You will need to mail the transfer form to the last owner of record requesting him to sign it. Include a self-addressed, stamped envelope. It is a good idea to include a note saying that you have adopted this dog and how he is doing. You can also include a picture. Most racing owners are delighted to know that their former dog now has a loving home. If in about six weeks you haven’t heard back, you might want to drop the owner a note. If you still don’t receive the form back, drop the issue. Just hug your hound and tell him how special he is to you. It makes no difference if you have his pedigree on a suitable for framing certificate or not. If you call the NGA ID department, they can tell you most of the information anyway. www.rosnet2000.com is great for all kinds of info on racers, as is The Greyhound Racing and Breeding Database at www.greyhound-data.com All of us at NMGC sincerely believe that you will enjoy and love your new pet. You are now a part of a small but growing number of people who consider themselves fortunate to have a Greyhound in their lives. You will quickly discover how truly unique they are. Please remember your commitment that you made that if you should ever be unable to provide for your Greyhound you will return him to NMGC so we can find him another home. We will be contacting you from time to time to see how you and your Grey are getting along. Mostly in the first week or so. It is important that we know you are both doing well. It’s not that we don’t trust you; we just want to make sure that there are no little problems that could turn into big problems later on. Please take the time to talk with us. We promise not to take up but a few minutes of your time, unless, of course you want to tell us all about the wonders of your new baby. If we leave a message, please return our call. Most groups now have a web page with an email address that you can contact, and always if you have any questions, please feel free to call us. As an adoptive Greyhound owner, not only do you have the best pet possible, you have also become a member of the NMGC family. We send newsletters out a couple times a year to keep you updated on what’s new and any upcoming Greyhound events. We always love to get pictures of the “kids” for our family albums. If you think one Greyhound in your home is fun, why not try two? Or three? They aren’t called the potato chip dogs for nothing. It’s hard to stop with just one. So hold your head up high and be proud when someone stops you while you are out with your Grey and asks all about him. There is a deadly disease stalking your dog. A hideous, stealthy thing just waiting it’s chance to steal your beloved friend. It’s not a new disease, or one for which there are inoculations. The disease is called trust. You knew before you ever took your Greyhound home that he could not be trusted. The people who provided you with this precious animal warned you, drummed it into your head. A newly rescued racer may steal off counters, destroy something expensive, chase cats, and must NEVER be allowed off his lead! When the big day finally arrived, heeding the sage advice, you escorted your dog to his new home, properly collared and tagged, the lead held tightly in your hand. At home the house was “doggie proofed”. Everything of value was stored in the spare bedroom, garbage stowed on top of the refrigerator, cats separated, and a gate placed across the door to the living room. All windows and doors had been properly secured and signs placed in strategic points reminding all to “CLOSE THE DOOR”. Soon it became second nature to make sure the door closes a second after it was opened and that it really latched. “DON’T LET THE DOG OUT” is your second most verbalized expression (the first being NO). You worry and fuss constantly, terrified that your darling will get out and a disaster will surely follow. Your friends comment about whom you love the most, your family or the dog. You know that to relax your vigil for a moment might lose him to you forever. And so the weeks and months pass, with your Grey becoming more civilized every day, and the seeds of trust are planted. It seems that each new day brings less mischief, less breakage. Almost before you know it your racer has turned into an elegant, dignified friend. Now that he is a more reliable, sedate companion, you take him more places. No longer does he chew on the steering wheel when left in the car. And darned if that cake wasn’t still on the counter this morning. And, oh yes, wasn’t that the cat he was sleeping with so cozy on your pillow last night? At this point you are beginning to become infected, the disease is spreading its roots deep into your mind. One of your friends suggests obedience. You shake your head and remind her that your dog might run away if allowed off lead, but you are reassured when she promises the events are held in a fenced area. And wonders of wonders, he did not run away, but came every time you called him! All winter long you go to weekly
obedience classes. After a time you even let him run loose from the car
to the house when you get home. Why not, he always runs straight to the
door, dancing a frenzy of joy and waits to be let in. Remember, he comes
every time he is called. You know he is the exception that proves the
rule. And some times late at night, you even let him slip out the front
door to go potty and then right back in. At this point the disease has
taken hold, waiting only for the right time and place to rear its ugly
head. This is the time the disease has been waiting for so patiently. Sometimes it only has to wait a year or two, but often it takes much longer. He spies the neighbor dog across the street and suddenly forgets everything he ever knew about not slipping outdoors, jumping out windows, or coming when called due to traffic. Perhaps it was only a paper fluttering in the breeze, or even just for the sheer joy of running. Stopped in an instant. Stilled forever - - your heart is broken at the sight of his still beautiful body. The disease is trust. The outcome; hit by a car. Every morning my dog Shah bounced around off his lead exploring. Every morning for seven years he came back when he was called. He was perfectly obedient, perfectly trustworthy. He died fourteen hours after being hit by a car. Please don’t risk your friend and your heart. Save the trust for things that do not matter. TWO ADDITIONAL ACCOUNTS This is a basic tragic accident due to an improper fitting collar. The owners had the Grey on lead, but unfortunately were using a buckle collar. The dog became frightened at something and just backed out of the collar. She took off from them at top speed. Before they could manage to get close enough to catch her, she had run into the road and was instantly killed by a car. This is the reason for using a Greyhound safety collar or harness. The second involves too much trust and a lack of common sense. The owners lived somewhat out in the country. Woods surrounded their home and they were well off any major roadway. They had their new Grey about three weeks, when the call came that we all hate the most, “Our Greyhound is lost!” These owners did not have a fenced year, but they swore they would keep the dog on a lead when outdoors. Upon questioning, they admitted to having quit using the lead after the first week. The weather had gotten cold and early in the mornings they would simply turn her out the back door, wait for her to “do her business”, then call her back in. “She always came back when she was called” the woman stated. They felt it was safe enough to allow her off lead for short bits of time. She never ventured off into the woods before. Unfortunately, this time she DID bound off into the woods. Perhaps she heard a squirrel, or smelled a rabbit. Whatever the reason, she had taken off into the woods and they could not find her. Hopes of finding her safe and sound faded a little more with each passing day. There was no sign of the pretty female Greyhound. After several weeks, the worst fears were confirmed. A very nice man and his son were walking in the woods and discovered the still cold body of a small, dead Greyhound. He got the phone number off of her collar ID tag. She was found many, many miles away from home. No matter how much or how long you train and teach your dog, there may come a point when instinct will win over. Please don’t be fooled into a false sense of security with your Greyhound. Take the time; make the little extra effort, to ensure your Greyhound will be safe. He is depending on you. Greyhound Adoption League received this over the Internet. They do not know who the author was but these events are not fiction. There are many more horror stories of just such as these that happen when owners thinkthey can trust their Grey. Don’t let it happen to you or your fur kid. Pat Roberts is the President of GPA-Lone
Star Greyhounds When Pat adopted her first Greyhound, Easy’s Stargazer, she went into it with very little “Greyhound education”. Pat said, “I felt there was a need for a simple handbook to help new Greyhound owners through those first few months. Most of you know how hectic it is when you are in the process of adopting. We often forget to tell people every little thing. So without knowing how to type, and never having used a computer in my life, I set out to write a handbook. This is the third update and hopefully improved edition.” “It is my hope that this handy dandy little book will answer questions, give you some insight into Greyhound life, and life with a Greyhound. Maybe even give you a smile or two. And by the way, most everything that is mentioned in here, mine have already done. And then some.” Our thanks to Pat for allowing us to use her booklet and sharing her wisdom and experience. Thanks to her husband Allan for supporting it all. Pat, Hug Those Hounds.
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